Beth Eats Italy Part IV: The “PLACE” and the “PALACE”

If you have been following my Italian Adventure from the beginning, than welcome back to Capri! If this is your first time joining in, it is my third post about this small, but amazing island. I wouldn’t have imagined that the two short days I spent there would garner three separate blogs (and I could go on!) but that, in and of itself says something about why you should visit! If you’re getting married anytime soon, Capri and the Amalphi coast is a fantastic honeymoon destination too. I can’t think of a more seductive getaway!

If you are looking for THE best and most romantic in terms of accommodations and service there are several choices here. On this day, we visited another wonderful property called JK Place for a tour and lunch. Their charming GM showed us around this intimate hotel as though it were his home. In fact at JK Place you have the distinct feeling of being in someone’s house the moment you walk through the front door. I loved it!

Each of the 22 rooms are beautifully appointed, cozy and not pretentious, the bathrooms are to die for and very spa-like. The spa itself is lovely and opens up to the pool which is tremendous, especially considering how few guests there are at any given time. And the pièce de résistance of the day was the food at JKitchen.

After the tour we gathered in their small bar for a cocktail and some finger food. I had a Campari and OJ (it only seemed appropriate!) with mini tuna tartar tossed in basil, lemon and olive oil, mini calzones and savory zeppoli, which were salty and chewy and delicious! In anticipation of another multi-course lunch, I was forced to limit myself to one of each!

In a dining room that was reminiscent of sitting in one’s residence, we were treated to a great lunch that included pancetta wrapped white fish over a puree of rosemary potatoes (an amuse-bouche) and smoked mozzarella draped over eggplant ‘tartar” as a starter.

For the pasta course, it was hand-made fussilli with butter, garlic, parsley, shrimp, clams and mussels. The whole meal was delicious, but the star was this pasta dish. I’m typically not a huge fan of seafood with pasta (except for perfectly done linguine vongole, which in my experience is hard to find), but THIS had me doing that thing you do when your eyes close and you audibly sigh with the first bite. The shrimp was beyond sweet, and was a pink that I had never seen before. It truly was perfection on a plate.

Dessert was an array of several dreamy pastry, but to be honest, I was so full at this point, I lost the will to document it! Suffice it to say – it was all beautiful.

Back at the Capri Tiberio Palace Hotel (see Part II: Ah, Capri, for more on what was my “home” in Capri if you missed it!), with another very full stomach, I had some much-needed time to come out of my food coma, answer some emails and oh yes, head over to the Blu Mediterrean spa for another fantastic massage.

I was quickly learning on this trip that pacing myself was very important because every meal was (and would be) a marathon of very special and seductive food. That night, cocktails were planned at the famed Caesar Augustus Hotel (another wonderful hotel option in Capri), to be followed by dinner at the 2 Michelin star L’Olivio at the Capri Palace Hotel, which is another 5 diamond deluxe property.

When we arrived at the Capri Palace up in AnaCapri, we were taken to see several of their wonderfully clever accommodations including the Paltrow Suite (for Gwyneth) and the Margritte (as in René) Suite. Each have unusual private pools that reflect their namesakes and the rooms themselves were equally sexy and unique:

There are several incredible “Art” and “Star” suites to choose from along with room types that are not themed per se, but still honor this hotels dedication to beauty, comfort, style and of course, service. In fact, throughout the entire hotel, you can’t help but notice a clear appreciation for the arts and creativity.

Upon entering L’Olivio, it was clear that this feeling extended into the food! The vibe at this fine dining restaurant is incredibly comfortable given it’s luxe interior. Our party of 8 was very cozy at a huge square table which boasted cushy couches on three sides with separate armchairs on one. We were immediately served flutes of Ca ‘del Bosco Spumanti and sipped them while scanning the menu. The decision-making process was painful because there were so many unique and delicious sounding choices. After much deliberation, here’s what I had for dinner:

The duo of amuses were anchovies with ricotta (I discovered that I love anchovies after all!!), eggplant & chicory salad with bacon and a bruschetta with salt cod. Please trust me when I tell you that my descriptions hardly do justice to the reality. The bread sticks weren’t just any bread sticks and they were served with buffalo cream instead of butter or olive oil. It was all crazy good!

My first course, called the Seafood Mosaic, was one of the most imaginative and delicious plates that has ever been placed in front of me. It is exactly what it sounds like; a mosaic of 9 single bites, each a raw item where one was more mouth-watering than the next.

My pasta was spaghetti with sea urchin and white tomato juice. Anybody who knows me, knows that sea urchin is an all-time favorite, and this plate practically made me swoon.

I made sure to keep room for the main course, which was a braised veal leg scented with spices with citrus fruits and assorted veggies. All I can think of to say is “Ah”.

As a gift, I was given the most enormous cookbook I’ve ever seen called “Oliver Glowig Arte e Gusto a Capri”, which has recipes and photos of the dishes they serve at L’Olivio. It’s written in Italian of course, but even if it was in English, to replicate what their chef’s do at home in my kitchen would be a challenge to say the least. This book (all 10ish pounds of it) is a prized souvenir that I will always cherish. It wasn’t easy to it schlep all all over Italy – then home. But I’m so glad I did!

So four days into this trip and I’m guessing that I may have already gained 5 pounds! I would call that a good start! Tomorrow, we’re off to Positano and while I’m sad to say arrivederci to Capri I can’t wait!

If you’re interested in hearing more about Capri (or anywhere else for that matter) let me know! It’s my job to send people off on great adventures!

Ciao for now!
Beth

Beth@elitetravelinternational.com
journeybybeth@yahoo.com.
http://www.twitter.com/BethLovesTravel
http://www.Facebook.com/beth.friedman1

If you missed Parts I-III of Beth Eats Italy, here are the links:
Naples: https://yourjourneybybeth.wordpress.com/2010/10/29/beth-eats-italy-part-1-naples-2/
Ah, Capri: https://yourjourneybybeth.wordpress.com/2010/11/09/beth-eats-italy-part-ii-ah-capri/
More Capri: https://yourjourneybybeth.wordpress.com/2010/11/19/beth-eats-italy-part-iii-more-on-capri/

Beth Eats Italy Part III: More on Capri…..

I’m going to take a little break. In this post, there will be no food. No wine. No hotels or resorts. There will be no raving about the decor, artwork or hospitality of any particular place. Instead, I’m going attempt to express to you in words (and some very amateurish photos) the absolute wonder and beauty of Capri not from what’s happening ON the island, but from the perspective of the sea!

Keep in mind that my time in Italy this year was in October, so it wasn’t exactly beach weather. We experienced tons of sunshine mixed with a few showers with mild temperatures of about 65 degrees. It was cooler on some occasions and warmer on others. For me, it was perfect. But it didn’t give any of us the chance to swim in the Tyrrhenian Sea or truly explore the grottos and caves that dot the perimeter of island.

Even without the benefit of dipping my toes (or the rest of myself for that matter) into the sea, the time I spent on the water was without question a true highlight. The colors alone were enough to mesmerize me.

I had the pleasure of seeing the coast of Capri on the Joey II, a small yacht owned by Il San Pietro Hotel for the ride to Positano. Whenever you travel from point A to point B in this part of the world, I highly recommend going by boat if you can. It basically kills two birds with one stone by getting you where you need to go while touring at the same time. On this trip our captain took us around the island to see the world famous Rocks of Faraglioni close up, along with the grottos/caves and cliffs that make up the distinct landscape of Capri.

One of Capri’s best known attractions is the Blue Grotto, which is entered through a tiny little opening of about 2 meters by two meters cut into the rocks of the island. You will need to be aboard a small rowboat for no more than three people and you must lay down flat on the boat to pass through the narrow mouth of the cave. The entrance isn’t accessible at all times, so don’t go without a guide. I did not have the chance to explore the cave except for seeing it’s entrance, but on my next trip I will most definitely make it a point to go because I’m told that it is unbelievable to see the intense colors, the light playing off the dark caves and the silvery way objects appear in the water. There’s also the White Grotto and the Emerald Grotto that I don’t want to miss!

Throughout the trip, I took some terrible photos that do no justice to what I was experiencing. But here are a few to give you an idea since I don’t have the writing skills to truly describe it:

The last photo I’ll share is of me. It’s the last photo ever taken wearing my favorite Jackie-O sunglasses. A few moments after it was snapped, I placed the glasses on top my head to see up into the caves more clearly. While I was gawking upwards, they slipped off and into the sea. At first I was a little upset because I really liked those glasses. But then I was glad because now there will always be a little part of me in the water surrounding Capri.

Ciao for now,
Beth

If you missed Beth Eats Italy Parts I and II, here are the links:

Beth Eats Italy Part 1: Naples

Beth Eats Italy Part II: Ah, Capri

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http://www.twitter.com/BethLovesTravel
beth@elitetravelinternational.com
journeybybeth@yahoo.com

Beth Eats Italy Part II: Ah, Capri

I have to confess that when I stepped off of the hydrofoil from Naples and arrived in Capri, it was a moment of pure happiness. I had always wanted to see this part of the world, so it was the realization of a dream. It’s not everyday that you get to be somewhere that you’ve always wanted to go. And it was a pretty fantastic feeling even though I hadn’t gotten past the marina yet. It’s times like this that reinforce my feeling that travel truly is one of life’s great pleasures, and is awfully good for the soul. That’s me in the middle below!

At the marina, we were greeted by a representative from the Capri Tiberio Palace, the hotel where we would be staying for this leg of the trip. Our bags were counted, collected and taken up to the hotel for us, then safely planted in our rooms. When you travel to Capri, this is a really nice touch because otherwise you have to drag your luggage with you to your hotel – which entails some walking, a trip up the “funicular” (think cross between train and skiing gondola heading upwards) and more walking. Capri is primarily a pedestrian island and while there are taxis, their reach throughout the island is limited to specific areas. Already the Tiberio Palace was proving to be a fantastic host. One could easily get very used to this 5 diamond deluxe lifestyle!

In my last post, part 1 of “Beth Eats Italy: Naples”, most of the food I enjoyed and shared with you was more like ‘home-cookin’ than anything else. In Capri, it would be fine dining all the way! Moving forward into this “Italian Adventure” was like living in some culinary parallel universe where everything placed in front of me was presented in the most creative way imaginable, using the finest, freshest ingredients and prepared by chefs at restaurants with incredible accolades. I believe that eating your way through another culture is the best way to understand it. And all of our meals in Capri were a testament to it’s glitzy, yet beachy vibe. That’s not to say that you can’t find a simple pizza, salad or pasta there, but we were destined for something else.

Upon arrival at the Capri Tiberio Palace, we were offered a champagne flute filled with a tart, but still perfectly sweet house made lemonade (lemons are a big deal in these parts!). I was escorted to my room, and settling in was so much fun because the suite was truly a wonderful mix of casual elegance with a beachy feel. It was extremely cozy with hard wood floors and white and blue ceramic details with a wonderful sitting area, huge windows, an incredible terrace and a mind blowing view. Everywhere I turned, there was a cool detail to take in.

Renovations of the entire property will take place over the winter so what is already fabulous will only be better come next season. I should also mention that the Blu Mediterraneo Spa by Acqua di Parma is sensational. I had one of the best massages of my life there.

That night, we were having dinner with our hosts from the hotel and it was such a fun, fine dining, italian feast! Cocktails were in the Jacky Bar, Tiberio’s funky lounge where we were treated to some fresh, light hors d’oeuvres of salmon and green apple carpaccio, beef and capers carpaccio and cherry tomoatos with smoked mozzarella (I’m finding that you are hard pressed to find a meal that doesn’t include mozzarella cheese here). It was such a nice way to start another large meal – all three were so refreshing and didn’t take much room up in the stomach!

After cocktails, we made our way down to their restaurant called Terrazza Tiberio. The service, the company and of course the food were memorable. Here’s the lowdown on what I ate (Foodies, hold on to your hats):
The amuse bouche was cous cous and eggplant over tomato cancasay w/anchovie. Next was eggplant flan w/buffalo riccotta, tomato and basil vinaigrette. This was to die for, so already I’m worried about my ability to consume everything I want to eat! Next came caprese ravioli. It was unlike any ravioli I had ever had before. Here, they were like cute little pillows of yumminess (yes. I said “yumminess”) vs. the square, flatter version we get at home. .
Hey, did you know that the caprese salad was born in Capri? And, so is ravioli! It was news to me!

My main course was a seabass en palette (steamed in a bag) with a side salad of bitter greens, lemon and the fruitiest olive oil I’ve ever had.This seemingly simple dinner was so incredibly good! The fish was flaky, citrusy and cooked perfectly, and the salad was fresh, light and the ideal side to the sea bass.

It’ll come as no surprise that I was full at this point, but I couldn’t resist dessert. Not one that looked like the picture below! It was white chocolate mouse with a licorice caramel ‘heart’ covered w/chocolate
sauce. ‘Nuf said.I’m going to reel myself in here and save some of my adventures in Capri for another time. What I’ve written about just scratches the surface of one day, one meal and one hotel! There are the famous grottos, cliffs, caves and of course the shopping! Capri is without question somewhere that you want to make sure is on your ‘bucket list’ so stay tuned to hear more about it!

For more information on any of the above, just ask! If you missed Beth Eats Italy Part 1: Naples: here it is!

Beth Eats Italy Part 1: Naples

Ciao for now!
Beth

follow me on twitter at http://www.twitter.com/BethLovesTravel
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beth@elitetravelinternational.com
journeybybeth@yahoo.com